Cobblestone alleys, ivy-covered walls, street musicians, and trattorias. Trastevere is most magical 21:00–midnight.
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is the central square. Food is mediocre on the piazza — walk into the side streets.
Good neighborhood spots: Da Enzo al 29 (reserve), Trapizzino (street food pizza wraps), Tonnarello.