The 10,000 vermilion torii gates are deserted at 6–7 AM. By 10 AM they're a slow-moving tourist line.
It takes about 2–3 hours to hike the full mountain loop. Halfway up (Yotsutsuji) has a viewpoint over Kyoto and a tea house.
Wear sneakers. The trail has steps and inclines. Bring water — vending machines exist on the path.